Glossary

Alarm:Alarm or reminder with an acoustic signal that is activated when the watch reaches the pre-set alarm time.

Anadigi display:A display that shows the time both by means of hour and minute hands (an analog display) and by separate digital numbers. Anadigi watches can also combine analog and digital features to include other features like stopwatches, dates and chronographs.

Analog display:A display that shows the time by means of hands and a dial.

Applied figures:Figures or index which have been attached to the dial. Arabic numbers Figures on a dial, such as 1, 2, 3, as opposed to Roman numerals, such as I, II, V, IX

Atmospheric Pressure (ATM’s):Each ATM equals 33 feet of water pressure done in a static state.

Automatic (or Self-Winding) Mechanism:A mechanical movement that derives its energy from the motion of the wearer’s arm and thus does not require manual winding. The automatic winding of the watch is accomplished by a rotor that moves as long as the watch is kept in motion.

Automatic repeat countdown timer:Countdown timer that resets as soon as the pre-set time has elapsed and starts the countdown again. It repeats the countdown continuously until the wearer pushes the stop button.

Balance:Oscillating swinging system of a mechanical watch the oscillation rate of watch determines the rotation speed of the wheels. The balance is a high precision building block that consists of the balance staff, the balance rim, the hairspring, and the double roller.

Baguette :Small rectangular stones which are shaped and faceted. Often used as accents to another stone. The term can also apply to the shape of watch cases.

Balance spring : A very fine spring (also called a “hair spring”) in a mechanical watch that returns the balance wheel back to a neutral position.

Balance wheel:The part of a mechanical watch movement that oscillates, dividing time into equal segments.

Bangle:A stiff bracelet that slips over the hand or is hinged.

Bezel :The ring on top of the watch case.

Bi-directional rotating bezel:A bezel that can be moved either clockwise or counterclockwise. These are used for mathematical calculations or for keeping track of elapsed time.

Bearing jewel :Synthetic ruby with a hole drilled through its center, bearing for the pivot of a wheel to reduce friction.

Blued Screws:Tempered steel screws, whose blue color is the result of an oxidizing chemical reaction when heated to a temperature of approximately 290oC (554oF).

Cabochon:A domed gemstone. Highly polished curved surface without faceting found on a watch crown.

Calendar:A feature that shows the day of the month, and often the day of the week and the year.

Caliber:Originally used to designate the diameter of a watch movement. Over the years, however, the term became synonymous with the movement as such, and nowadays these two terms are used interchangeably.

Carat:Unit of weight for gemstones with 100 points to a carat, with one carat equaling one-fifth of a gram.

Chronograph/Chronoscope:“Chronograph” is used today to refer to a clock or watch that is equipped with the function of a stopwatch. However, this use of the term is not entirely correct since “chronograph” literally means “time writer” (Greek graphein=to write). Because the additional function does not record the time but rather simply show the time, the correct term, which is also used among specialists, is actually “chronoscope” (Greek skopein=to watch, to look at).

Column-Wheel Chronograph:Chronograph movements can be controlled either via a column wheel or a gear-shifting gate. The more sophisticated version is the column-wheel chronograph, in which function such as start, stop, reset to zero are operated via a control wheel, which has to be manufactured with extreme precision in order to ensure the flawless operation of the stopwatch features.

Chronometer:A mechanical watch which has passed rigorous testing for time keeping in different positions and temperatures in a Swiss laboratory. Individually numbered and accompanied by a certificate.

Compass :Navigational instrument for finding directions.

Complication : An additional feature in a watch movement beyond the basic function of timekeeping. Typical examples of complications are chronographs,”perpectual calendars “, or power reserve displays.

Countdown Feature:Adjustable counter in a watch that counts time backwards from a pre-set starting time.

“Cotes de geneve” Finishing : Finely striped finish used to decorate the movement and applied to the rotor, the wheel bridge or the balance cock.

Crown : The ridged knob on the outside of a watch which is used to set or wind the watch. A piece fastened to the stem for winding the watch. (Slang term: winding knob or button). The crown can operate with a “screw-down” or “pusher” motion.

Crystal : A top-quality colorless, transparent glass resembling natural or rock crystal. About 200 kinds associated with jewelry. Made through an ancient process that involves lead oxide.

Darkness Power Reserve : The time period in which a fully-charged solar-powered watch continues to run in absolute darkness, i.e, without being recharged by light.

Date Magnifier : A magnifier in the glass over the date to facilitate easy reading.

Day/Night Indicator : A colored or shaded band on a world time dial that shows which time zones are in daylight and which in darkness.

Day/Date :A window displaying the day of the week and the month.

Digital Watch : A watch that shows the time using LCD or LED numerals rather than through a dial and hands (analog) display.

Deco style : Derived from the style of Art Deco, which originated in France in the 1920’s and 1930’s. Typified by abstract designs and linear, geometric patterns.

Divers watch : This watch is water-resistant to a depth specified by the manufacturer, generally 330 feet or more. To protect the movement, the diver’s watch has a “screw-down” crown, generally similar to that of a hatch on a submarine.

Ebauche : A term used by Swiss watch manufacturers to denote the unassembled raw movements without jewels, escapement, plating, engraving. The manufacturers supply their ebauches to trade name importers in the U.S.A and other countries who have them finished, jewel.

Elapsed time rotating bezel : A graduated rotating bezel used to keep track of periods of time. The bezel can be turned so the wearer can align the zero on the bezel with the watch’s second or minutes hand. He can then read the elapsed time off the bezel.

Enamel : Colored, opaque glassy material fused onto metal, pottery or glass.

Escapement : Device in a mechanical movement that controls the rotation of the wheels and thus the motion of the hands.

Exhibition Back:Crystal on back enables the wearer to see the movement of the watch.

Fine Adjustment : Additional device on the balance cock for the exact positioning of the regulator, which adjusts the active length of the hairspring and thus the rate of the watch.

Lap timer : A chronograph function that lets the wearer time segments of a race. At the end of a lap, he stops the timer, which then returns to zero to begin timing the next lap.

Lines : A tradition unit of measurement formerly used to indicate the diameter of watch movements. After the introduction of the metric system in 1872, these units slowly became obsolete. Nowadays, the diameter of a movement is usually expressed in millimeters, although watch makers might still use lines. One line (1’’’) equals 202558 millimeters, or 1/12 of a “French inch”.


Manual Synchronization:Option to synchronize a radio-controlled watch manually with the time-signal transmitter.

Moon-phase : A window in a watch face that shows which phase the moon is in. A disk beneath the window, painted with pictures of a moon, rotates as the month progresses, revealing gradually larger or smaller segments of the picture.

Movement : The inner mechanism of a watch that keeps time and moves the watch’s hands, calendar, etc. Movements are either mechanical or quartz.

Multi-Frequency Radio-Controlled Watch : Radio-controlled watch is able to receive signals from the DCF 77.5 transmitter in Europe as well as JJY40 and JJY60 in Japan and WWB in North America.

Pawl Winding Mechanism : The pawl winding mechanism is the part of an automatic movement that transfers the motion of the rotor by means of a reduction gear and pawl (or ratchet) wheel to the mainspring. The energy thus stored inside the barrel is used to move the wheels. A double click permits an efficient use of the rotor’s hi-directional motion.

Perpetual Calendar : A calendar that automatically accounts for the different lengths of the months as well as for leap years in the Gregorian calendar.

Power Autonomy/Power Reserve : The terms “power autonomy” or “power reserve” describe the running time that remains in a fully wound or partially unwound movement before it stops, provided that no additional winding takes place in the meantime.

Power reserve indicator : A feature of a mechanical watch that shows how much longer the watch will operate before it must be wound. A battery reserve indicator on a quartz watch informs the wearer when the battery is low.

PVD Coating : Physical vapor deposition (PVD) is a method for coating watch cases, in which a thin film of pure metal is deposited by evaporation in a vacuum. PVD-coated cases are particularly scratch-resistant, skin-friendly, and allergy-neutral.

Quartz Movement : A movement that is run by an electric oscillator powered by watch battery or a solar cell and regulated by a synthetic quartz crystal. (The rate difference is less than one second per week.)

Radio-controlled Watch : A watch that receives a time signal from a central radio transmitter. Due to its continuous synchronization, the radio-controlled watch is the most accurate form of measuring time. In addition, it offers the convenience of switching automatically between standard time and daylight saving time.

Rotor : The rotor in an automatic watch winds the mainspring when the wearer moves his arm. In order to make use of even the slightest movements of the watch, the balance point of the rotor has to be located in as eccentric a position as possible. This is achieved by a semi-circular geometry and the attachment of a segment made of gold or another metal with a high specific weight. The rotor (also referred to as an oscillating weight) is usually pivoted on the back of the movement.

Sapphire Crystal : Watch glass made of industrially manufactured sapphire, which is extremely scratch-resistant due to its exceptional hardness.

Secondary Time Display : Option to display another time (e.g. that of another time zone).

Solar-Powered Radio-Controlled Watch : A radio-controlled watch powered by solar energy, watch is gained by a solar cell and collected in a solar storage. This storage powers the watch even with minimal exposure to light.

Sub-Second : A small subsidiary dial indicating seconds and traditionally placed off-center on the main watch dial.

Synchronization : Time comparison between a radio-controlled watch and a time-signal transmitter.

Tachymeter (or Tachometer) : A watch scale used to compute speed. If a chronograph is started at a marker, the point on the tachymeter scale adjacent to the second hand when passing the next marker will indicate the speed of travel between the two.

Time-Zone Adjustment : When changing time-zones, a radio-controlled watch can be adjusted to display the local time and date. Radio-controlled watches with a secondary time display can be adjusted to display both local time and home time.