While 1894 was the founding year of Universal Genève, it also symbolised the start of a great adventure. Present on European markets from its early days, the company originally known as Descombes & Perret has never ceased to fascinate connoisseurs and devotees ever since. In the course of its long and eventful history, Universal Genève developed a considerable quantity of movements to equip its collections, each representing a further step on the path to innovation. Within the space of a few years, several models that are still highly sought-after among collectors to this day were introduced: the Uni-Compax, the Compax, the Medico- Compax, the Aero-Compax and the Tri-Compax (also referred to as “le glorieux”), as well as the famous Polerouter. Nicknamed the “watch couturier”, Universal Genève also designed subtle and refined ladies’ collections featuring uniquely personalised models.
Much in favour in the literary and artistic “salons” of post-war Paris, Universal Genève timepieces established themselves as a watchmaking reference. After revolutionising the chronograph by introducing a second push-button and a chronograph hour counter, the Universal Genève design-engineers presented a patented automatic winding system with 360° oscillating weight, integrated within the movement and significantly enhancing its precision: the Microtor. This invention resulted in the world’s thinnest (a mere 2.5 mm) selfwinding movement, Calibre UG 66, which was to equip the Golden Shadow launched in 1966. Building on over 100 years of know-how, Universal Genève is now run by a team of passionately dedicated brand devotees headed by Vincent Lapaire, who is conducting a development strategy closely attuned to the markets.
Chronology:
1894 :January 18th – Creation in Le Locle of the Descombes & Perret watch company headed by Numa Emile Descombes (1863-1897) and Ulysse Georges Perret (1868-1933).
Vintage Universal Geneve Chronograph Circa 1920
1925:Two international patents (nos91051 and 91463) are registered for the Auto-Rem, the first selfwinding wristwatch by Universal (a mechanism equipped with buffers).
1927-1929:Presentation of the Cabriolet model and of watches endowed with an 8-day power reserve.
Universal Geneve Cabriolet Circa 1928
1934:Creation of the double push-button Compur chronograph wristwatch (a trademark registered under patent n°83340); the first movement used is equipped with two column wheels.
1935:Launch of the Compax chronograph wristwatch with 12-hour and 30-minute counters.
1936:Presentation of the Uni Compax chronograph wristwatch with 45-minute counter.
Universal Genève Uni Compax chronograph Circa 1936
1937:Universal Watch Co. Ltd is renamed Universal Genève. Creation of the smallest ladies’ chronograph wristwatch of the era, equipped with a 19 ½’’’ movement.
1940:Launch of the Aero-Compax (patent n° 235608). This is a Compax chronograph equipped with a fourth subdial featuring hour and minute hands at 12 o’clock and enabling the user to memorise the start of an operation by means of an additional crown at 9 o’clock.
1943:Universal Genève presents the calendar watch, with or without moon-phase display, showing the small seconds at 9 o’clock, the date at 3 o’clock, the day at 12 o’clock and the months and moon phases at 6 o’clock.
1944:Manufacture des Montres Universal, Perret et Berthoud SA à Genève To commemorate its 50th anniversary, the company presents its latest launch: the Tri- Compax.This hour-counter chronograph with triple-date calendar and moon-phase display is to become one of watchmaking’s greatest 20th century commercial successes.
The Tri- Compax Chronograph Circa 1944
1948:UG launches Calibre 138, a 12 ½’’’ self-winding movement with small seconds and subsequently central seconds.
1954-1955:Launch of the Polerouter or Polarouter. SAS (Scandinavian Airlines System) makes the inaugural flight along the first air route between Europe and the United States to cross the North Pole. The crew is equipped with a high-precision self-winding watch (Cal. 138) capable of withstanding the powerful magnetic fields around the Pole.
Universal Geneve Polerouter Circa 1954
1955:Creation of the Microrotor (patent n°329805), a new type of self-winding movement with oscillating weight integrated within the movement (Calibre 215).
1963:Presentation at the Basel Fair of the Universal Genève Railrouter and Polerouter Electric models.
1966:Launch of the Golden Shadow, “the world’s thinnest self-winding watch”, driven by Calibre 66 and Calibre 67 with date display (2.5 mm thick).
Universal Geneve Golden Shadow Circa 1966
1968:Introduction of the Tuning Unisonic, a watch with a tuning-fork type frequency regulator.
Universal Geneve Unisonic Circa 1968
1975:At the Basel Fair the brand presents Calibre 74, the world’s thinnest analog-display quartz driven movement (just 3.45 mm).
1994:To celebrate its centenary year, Universal launches a world first (UG Calibre 42-83/4’’): the Janus watch, inspired by the Cabriolet model. Its reversible dial features a single movement allowing one to read off the time on two dials, including one with jumping hours.
2005:Universal Genève launches two new collections, Okeanos (for men) and Anthea (for ladies).
2006:Presentation at Baselworld of four new models: the Microtor UG 100, the Okeanos Compax, the Okeanos Aero-Compax and the Okeanos Moon Chronograph.
2007:Presentation at Baselworld of three new steel men's watches: the Microtor UG 101 (selfwinding proprietary movement), now produced in series; the Uni-Timer, with two-counter chronograph Calibre UG 71.5; and the Timer Chronograph, with three-counter Calibre UG 71.6, the two latter being equipped with an openworked oscillating weight. For ladies, the Anthea steel watch is available in two new jewellery versions: one set with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds and the other with 132 brilliant-cut diamonds.
2008:Universal Genève presents the Microtor Cabriolet, a new timepiece inspired by the Cabriolet, the first reversible watch launched by the brand in 1928. A daringly shaped model in a decidedly masculine spirit and a marvel of mechanical ingenuity, the Microtor Cabriolet is driven by the signature Microtor UG 101 movement, and is distinguished by its impressively understated design. Meanwhile, another new release sees the Microtor UG 101 welcoming a new dial and an exclusive steel bracelet.
Universal Genève Microtor Cabriolet 2008
Vincent Lapaire:CEO Universal Genève
Born into a family hailing from the Swiss Jura region, Vincent Lapaire cultivates an immoderate love of art in all its forms that was instilled in him by his father, Director of the Geneva Art and History Museum from 1972 to 1994. From his first visits to Geneva’s Watch, Clock and Enamel Museum, Vincent became fascinated by the rare pieces displayed there and by their restoration. On completing his scientific studies, he began a career with one of the largest private banks in Switzerland. There he was to learn rigorous management standards and a certain “financial” approach to business, meaning an extreme concern for details. Endowed with an inherently creative mind, he subsequently took an opportunity to take his first steps in the watchmaking world.
1990:Vincent Lapaire joined Cartier in Fribourg, where he held various management positions and developed a fascination for the sense of artistry pervading the luxury world.
1993:As head of the purchasing department for Hysek Styling SA, he took part in the development of many different watch products, enabling him to become familiar with a large number of Swiss suppliers and craftsmen.
1999-2003:New responsibilities as Operations Manager for a “private label” company, Ideo Tempo SA in Lausanne, specialising in the production of high-end watches for famous Italian jewellery brands.
2003:As Operations Manager for Universal Genève, he conducted a meticulous audit of the company’s situation in order to develop the best possible strategy to revive this brand with an exceptionally rich history that continues to fascinate him.
2004:Promoted to CEO, he built up a motivated and dynamic team and undertook the renewal process. At Baselworld 2006, he presented a collection worthy of the Universal Genève heritage, particularly through the introduction of a new proprietary calibre, the Microtor UG100, created in harmony with the noble traditions of the Geneva-based manufacturer.
Official website: http://www.universal.ch/
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